Brief History and Natural Habitat
Since their arrival from Australia in the 1990’s, inland/ central bearded dragons (Pogona Viticcepts), became one of the most popular pet lizards in the United States. Captive bred bearded dragons are generally docile in nature. They are known as the “puppy dog” of the reptile world. They are a good pet choice for children and beginner reptile keepers. There are those who don’t tolerate being handled. Some are shy and skittish. However, to find an aggressive bearded dragon is pretty rare.
In the wild, bearded dragons live in arid woodlands and deserts of central Australia. They are diurnal (active during the day) and often found in bushes and tree stumps or basking on rocks in the morning and late afternoon or after meals. During the hottest parts of the season, they are found mostly in the morning and late afternoon. They burrow underground when the temperature gets too hot. In the fall or winter season, when food and water become scarce, the bearded dragons survive by brumation, which is equivalent to hibernation in mammals.
As babies, bearded dragons are often found living together in the same area, which is usually in the close proximity to their hatching ground. As they get older, they become solitary animals. Adult male bearded dragons are known to be quite territorial, especially during breeding season. They will attack humans and other animals to defend their territories.
Bearded dragons are omnivores (feed on flesh and plants). Because they live in the areas where foods are scarce, they are known as opportunistic feeders. Their diets consist of a wide variety of insects, plant matters, and other small animals, such as small rodents and other lizards. They rely on their acute sense of sight to hunt for preys. Their eyes are able to see colors but lack in depth perception since the eyes are located on the sides of their heads.
Bearded dragons are considered as a good choice for beginner reptile keepers because they are one of the easiest reptiles to take care of in captivity. However, there are some basic necessities that they must have when being kept in captivity. To know well about their care is a key to have healthy and happy bearded dragons as pets.
Lighting
When kept indoors, bearded dragons require a constant source of Ultraviolet (UV) light for 12-14 hours a day. The UV light is necessary to allow calcium absorption in their bones. The lack of UV light can cause metabolic bone diseases (MBD) from the lack of calcium in the bones. As dessert dwellers, bearded dragons also need an ample amount of light in their environment. Leaving a lot of dark spots in the cage may lead to some eye problems and lack of appetite, especially for younger bearded dragons.
Selecting the type of UV bulb is quite important. The coil/ compact type of bulb is not recommended because it only focuses the UV light onto one area in the cage while leaving other areas without coverage. Most bearded dragons are quite active during the day and will not stay at only one spot over a period of time. The fluorescent type bulb works the best as it provides the most coverage for UV light. The length of the UV bulb should stretch the length of the enclosure in order to provide proper UV exposure.
The height placement of the UV bulb should be per manufacturer’s recommendation, which is usually 8 to 12 inches depending on the UV rating. Some branches or rocks can be placed under the UV bulb to achieve proper the UV exposure. These branches or rocks can also encourage them to stay under the UV light. When using screen top cage, it’s recommended to place the UV inside the cage since the screen top can filter half of the UV light. The screen can filer about 50% of the UV lights.
The UV bulbs need to be replaced per manufacturer’s recommendation. It’s advisable purchase a UV meter and use it to regularly measure the exact amount of UV light that the bulb is producing. The UV bulb may need to be replaced sooner or in some cases, later than the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Heating
Bearded dragons need proper heat for thermoregulation, a process to maintain their body temperature. As cold blooded animals, they cannot regulate their body temperatures by themselves. Therefore, a constant source of heat is necessary for them to be active and to digest their foods.
A few things must be considered when selecting the heat source. Bearded dragons’ heat sensors are mostly located on their back. For that reason, an under heat source, such as heat rocks or mats, are not recommended, and they’ve been known to cause under burn on the bearded dragons. Any heat producing bulbs can be used as the source of heat. However, night light bulbs (usually red or blue in color) are not recommended since they can cause eye related problems.
Babies require a basking (hot) spot with surface temperature of 105oF to 115oF, and older bearded dragons require a basking (hot) spot with lower temperature of 95oF to 105oF. Rocks and tiles usually make good basking spots because they can retain heat. Belly heat is important for bearded dragons for proper thermoregulation and digestion of food. They also require a cool spot, located on the opposite side from the hot spot, with surface temperature of 80oF to 85oF to lower their body temperature when they get too hot. The cage ambient (air) temperature should be maintained at around 85oF to 90oF.
Some bearded dragons like heat more than others, and vice versa. If they stay mostly at the basking spot throughout the day, then it means that they are not getting enough heat. On the other hand, if they spend most time on the cool spot, then it means that the cage temperature is too hot. They will also open their mouth (gaping/ venting) to release heat if the temperature is too hot. It is important to understand your bearded dragons’ need of temperature range.
A good way to maintain the cage temperature is to use a thermostat to control the intensity of the heat bulb. The thermostat monitors the cage temperature (basking or cool spot) using a thermocouple or probe attached by a wire. When the probe measures a temperature above the desired temperature level, the thermostat will lower or cut off the power to the heat bulb. When the temperature inside the cage gets lower than the desired temperature, it will increase or turn power back on the heat bulb. Another way to maintain the temperature inside the cage is to use a power switch timer.
Housing
Enclosure
There are many types of cages that can be used to house your bearded dragons - plastic bins, glass terrariums, melamine enclosed cages, PVC enclosed cages, etc. Although picking the right enclosure seems to be a trivial matter, there are few things that need to be considered.
First, the placement of the enclosure. If the enclosure will be placed in a well-controlled environment, such as living room or bedroom, then open top cages such as plastic bins or glass terrariums may be used. This type of enclosure doesn’t hold in heat well. Most of the heat dissipates upward and out of the enclosure. Therefore, maintaining a desirable ambient/ air temperature can be hard. If the enclosure will be placed in a non-controlled environment, then the enclosed cages such as melamine or PVC cages will work better. This type of cage has all covered sides and usually glass sliding/ drop down doors on the front side. Melamine or PVC enclosed cages work well to hold in the heat and to maintain the desirable ambient/ air temperature. Since the heat can barely escape from inside the cage, a timer or thermostat is must when housing your bearded dragon in an enclosed cage.
The size of the enclosure also matters. Babies up to 3 months of age usually do better in smaller enclosures. 2 ft long by 2 ft wide (or equivalent size) enclosure can be used to house 2 up to 5 babies. The idea is to minimize the amount of energy they use when hunting for food. Baby bearded dragons also need higher overall cage temperature since they have higher metabolism. It is easier to maintain the temperature in a smaller cage compared to a larger one. The size of the cage can be gradually increased as the bearded dragon grows. As adults, they need to be housed in a minimum 3ft long by 2ft wide (or equivalent) enclosure. Although, the larger the enclosure the happier your bearded dragon will be. Since they’re very territorial, male bearded dragons can only be housed individually. With exceptions of some, females on the other hand, can be housed together in a group of 2 to 4. The minimum size of 4 ft long by 2 ft wide is required when housing more than one females.
Substrate
The most common misconception when choosing a substrate is that it’s perfectly safe to use sands or other loose materials because bearded dragons are dessert dwellers. Although that may be true for adult bearded dragons, it is definitely not the case for babies and juveniles. In the wild, baby and juvenile bearded dragons usually live above grounds and are often found in bushes and tree branches. Using sands or other loose materials as a substrate can increase the risk of impaction in baby to juvenile bearded dragons. Adult bearded dragons have more developed digestive systems than babies/ juveniles and are usually able to pass the substrate along. However, the chance of impaction will still be present. The best choices for substrate are newspapers, paper towels, and tiles.
Humidity
Besides maintaining the cage temperature, it is also important to maintain the humidity level inside the cage. As dessert reptiles, bearded dragons cannot tolerate high level of humidity. Any humidity level above 50% can lead to respiratory issues, such as upper respiratory infection (URI) and in some extreme cases, pneumonia. When using enclosed cages, it is not recommended to leave water dishes/ bowls inside the cage. Spraying water inside the cage should also need to be avoided.
Furniture/ Decorations
Babies tend to do better with minimal cage furniture/ decorations. The less things to clean up and disinfect means the less risk of parasites infestations, which usually carried by insects. Placing a branch that they can climb up on gives them a sense of security and also enables them to get better UV exposure.
Food and Water
Just as in the wild, bearded dragons in captivity can be fed a wide variety of food items. Insects are the most readily available and affordable choice of food. When choosing the type of insects, their nutritional values (protein and vitamin contents) need to be put into considerations. Some insects make better feeders than others. The tropical roaches, such as Dubia roaches, Madagascar hissing roaches, and others, have become popular insect feeders in the past few years. They are higher in protein and vitamin contents compared to other popular choice of insects, such as crickets and worms. Mealworms and superworms contain a lot of chitins (skin materials) and should not be used as staple diet for babies and juveniles. The chitins are hard to digest and can cause impactions in babies and juveniles.
There are many types of greens that can be given to bearded dragons. Collard greens, dandelion greens, and mustard greens are good choices for staple greens. Some greens such as spinach, arugula, and kale cannot be used as staples since they bind with calcium and can result in nutritional issues. Iceberg lettuce also doesn’t make a good choice since it contains mostly water and almost no nutritional value. Squash and carrots can be given in small amount for added vitamins. Fruits such as berries, banana, and apples can be given occasionally as treat. Some bearded dragons get bored from the same food after some period of time. It’s always a good idea to use different insects and greens in their diets. There are lots of references online for what food that they can and cannot eat.
During their growth periods, babies and juveniles should be fed mostly on insects for maximum protein intake. However, greens should still be offered to them in regular basis to eliminate the risk of vitamin deficiency. Babies are usually reluctant to eat greens in the beginning. Offering the greens before any insects may increase their chance of being eaten. Since bearded dragons are attracted to movements, sprinkling the greens inside the cage may help stimulate them to eat greens. Multivitamins supplement should be given two to three times a week to avoid the risk of being vitamin deficiency.
Babies can also get easily impacted when being fed too much in a single feeding. Therefore, feeding them in small amount a few times a day reduces the risks of impactions. It also helps with their digestive system.
Babies and juveniles need a lot of calcium during their growth periods. It’s necessary dusting their food items with calcium supplement with every feeding. They can take more calcium than their body need, and any excess calcium is passed in their stools. When using an artificial UV light, calcium supplement with vitamin D3 is required. Without a natural sun light, their body cannot produce its own supply of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium absorption in their bones.
Since bearded dragons live in arid regions of Australia, their main source of water comes from their food source. They are able to withstand up to weeks without drinking water. In captivity, bathing your bearded dragons two to three times a week for roughly 10 minutes in lukewarm water will give them a chance to drink. Having water bowl/ dish in the cage all the time is not necessary. Spraying their face gently with water is also a good way to get them to drink. However, close attention must be given to the humidity inside the cage when using this method.
Since their arrival from Australia in the 1990’s, inland/ central bearded dragons (Pogona Viticcepts), became one of the most popular pet lizards in the United States. Captive bred bearded dragons are generally docile in nature. They are known as the “puppy dog” of the reptile world. They are a good pet choice for children and beginner reptile keepers. There are those who don’t tolerate being handled. Some are shy and skittish. However, to find an aggressive bearded dragon is pretty rare.
In the wild, bearded dragons live in arid woodlands and deserts of central Australia. They are diurnal (active during the day) and often found in bushes and tree stumps or basking on rocks in the morning and late afternoon or after meals. During the hottest parts of the season, they are found mostly in the morning and late afternoon. They burrow underground when the temperature gets too hot. In the fall or winter season, when food and water become scarce, the bearded dragons survive by brumation, which is equivalent to hibernation in mammals.
As babies, bearded dragons are often found living together in the same area, which is usually in the close proximity to their hatching ground. As they get older, they become solitary animals. Adult male bearded dragons are known to be quite territorial, especially during breeding season. They will attack humans and other animals to defend their territories.
Bearded dragons are omnivores (feed on flesh and plants). Because they live in the areas where foods are scarce, they are known as opportunistic feeders. Their diets consist of a wide variety of insects, plant matters, and other small animals, such as small rodents and other lizards. They rely on their acute sense of sight to hunt for preys. Their eyes are able to see colors but lack in depth perception since the eyes are located on the sides of their heads.
Bearded dragons are considered as a good choice for beginner reptile keepers because they are one of the easiest reptiles to take care of in captivity. However, there are some basic necessities that they must have when being kept in captivity. To know well about their care is a key to have healthy and happy bearded dragons as pets.
Lighting
When kept indoors, bearded dragons require a constant source of Ultraviolet (UV) light for 12-14 hours a day. The UV light is necessary to allow calcium absorption in their bones. The lack of UV light can cause metabolic bone diseases (MBD) from the lack of calcium in the bones. As dessert dwellers, bearded dragons also need an ample amount of light in their environment. Leaving a lot of dark spots in the cage may lead to some eye problems and lack of appetite, especially for younger bearded dragons.
Selecting the type of UV bulb is quite important. The coil/ compact type of bulb is not recommended because it only focuses the UV light onto one area in the cage while leaving other areas without coverage. Most bearded dragons are quite active during the day and will not stay at only one spot over a period of time. The fluorescent type bulb works the best as it provides the most coverage for UV light. The length of the UV bulb should stretch the length of the enclosure in order to provide proper UV exposure.
The height placement of the UV bulb should be per manufacturer’s recommendation, which is usually 8 to 12 inches depending on the UV rating. Some branches or rocks can be placed under the UV bulb to achieve proper the UV exposure. These branches or rocks can also encourage them to stay under the UV light. When using screen top cage, it’s recommended to place the UV inside the cage since the screen top can filter half of the UV light. The screen can filer about 50% of the UV lights.
The UV bulbs need to be replaced per manufacturer’s recommendation. It’s advisable purchase a UV meter and use it to regularly measure the exact amount of UV light that the bulb is producing. The UV bulb may need to be replaced sooner or in some cases, later than the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Heating
Bearded dragons need proper heat for thermoregulation, a process to maintain their body temperature. As cold blooded animals, they cannot regulate their body temperatures by themselves. Therefore, a constant source of heat is necessary for them to be active and to digest their foods.
A few things must be considered when selecting the heat source. Bearded dragons’ heat sensors are mostly located on their back. For that reason, an under heat source, such as heat rocks or mats, are not recommended, and they’ve been known to cause under burn on the bearded dragons. Any heat producing bulbs can be used as the source of heat. However, night light bulbs (usually red or blue in color) are not recommended since they can cause eye related problems.
Babies require a basking (hot) spot with surface temperature of 105oF to 115oF, and older bearded dragons require a basking (hot) spot with lower temperature of 95oF to 105oF. Rocks and tiles usually make good basking spots because they can retain heat. Belly heat is important for bearded dragons for proper thermoregulation and digestion of food. They also require a cool spot, located on the opposite side from the hot spot, with surface temperature of 80oF to 85oF to lower their body temperature when they get too hot. The cage ambient (air) temperature should be maintained at around 85oF to 90oF.
Some bearded dragons like heat more than others, and vice versa. If they stay mostly at the basking spot throughout the day, then it means that they are not getting enough heat. On the other hand, if they spend most time on the cool spot, then it means that the cage temperature is too hot. They will also open their mouth (gaping/ venting) to release heat if the temperature is too hot. It is important to understand your bearded dragons’ need of temperature range.
A good way to maintain the cage temperature is to use a thermostat to control the intensity of the heat bulb. The thermostat monitors the cage temperature (basking or cool spot) using a thermocouple or probe attached by a wire. When the probe measures a temperature above the desired temperature level, the thermostat will lower or cut off the power to the heat bulb. When the temperature inside the cage gets lower than the desired temperature, it will increase or turn power back on the heat bulb. Another way to maintain the temperature inside the cage is to use a power switch timer.
Housing
Enclosure
There are many types of cages that can be used to house your bearded dragons - plastic bins, glass terrariums, melamine enclosed cages, PVC enclosed cages, etc. Although picking the right enclosure seems to be a trivial matter, there are few things that need to be considered.
First, the placement of the enclosure. If the enclosure will be placed in a well-controlled environment, such as living room or bedroom, then open top cages such as plastic bins or glass terrariums may be used. This type of enclosure doesn’t hold in heat well. Most of the heat dissipates upward and out of the enclosure. Therefore, maintaining a desirable ambient/ air temperature can be hard. If the enclosure will be placed in a non-controlled environment, then the enclosed cages such as melamine or PVC cages will work better. This type of cage has all covered sides and usually glass sliding/ drop down doors on the front side. Melamine or PVC enclosed cages work well to hold in the heat and to maintain the desirable ambient/ air temperature. Since the heat can barely escape from inside the cage, a timer or thermostat is must when housing your bearded dragon in an enclosed cage.
The size of the enclosure also matters. Babies up to 3 months of age usually do better in smaller enclosures. 2 ft long by 2 ft wide (or equivalent size) enclosure can be used to house 2 up to 5 babies. The idea is to minimize the amount of energy they use when hunting for food. Baby bearded dragons also need higher overall cage temperature since they have higher metabolism. It is easier to maintain the temperature in a smaller cage compared to a larger one. The size of the cage can be gradually increased as the bearded dragon grows. As adults, they need to be housed in a minimum 3ft long by 2ft wide (or equivalent) enclosure. Although, the larger the enclosure the happier your bearded dragon will be. Since they’re very territorial, male bearded dragons can only be housed individually. With exceptions of some, females on the other hand, can be housed together in a group of 2 to 4. The minimum size of 4 ft long by 2 ft wide is required when housing more than one females.
Substrate
The most common misconception when choosing a substrate is that it’s perfectly safe to use sands or other loose materials because bearded dragons are dessert dwellers. Although that may be true for adult bearded dragons, it is definitely not the case for babies and juveniles. In the wild, baby and juvenile bearded dragons usually live above grounds and are often found in bushes and tree branches. Using sands or other loose materials as a substrate can increase the risk of impaction in baby to juvenile bearded dragons. Adult bearded dragons have more developed digestive systems than babies/ juveniles and are usually able to pass the substrate along. However, the chance of impaction will still be present. The best choices for substrate are newspapers, paper towels, and tiles.
Humidity
Besides maintaining the cage temperature, it is also important to maintain the humidity level inside the cage. As dessert reptiles, bearded dragons cannot tolerate high level of humidity. Any humidity level above 50% can lead to respiratory issues, such as upper respiratory infection (URI) and in some extreme cases, pneumonia. When using enclosed cages, it is not recommended to leave water dishes/ bowls inside the cage. Spraying water inside the cage should also need to be avoided.
Furniture/ Decorations
Babies tend to do better with minimal cage furniture/ decorations. The less things to clean up and disinfect means the less risk of parasites infestations, which usually carried by insects. Placing a branch that they can climb up on gives them a sense of security and also enables them to get better UV exposure.
Food and Water
Just as in the wild, bearded dragons in captivity can be fed a wide variety of food items. Insects are the most readily available and affordable choice of food. When choosing the type of insects, their nutritional values (protein and vitamin contents) need to be put into considerations. Some insects make better feeders than others. The tropical roaches, such as Dubia roaches, Madagascar hissing roaches, and others, have become popular insect feeders in the past few years. They are higher in protein and vitamin contents compared to other popular choice of insects, such as crickets and worms. Mealworms and superworms contain a lot of chitins (skin materials) and should not be used as staple diet for babies and juveniles. The chitins are hard to digest and can cause impactions in babies and juveniles.
There are many types of greens that can be given to bearded dragons. Collard greens, dandelion greens, and mustard greens are good choices for staple greens. Some greens such as spinach, arugula, and kale cannot be used as staples since they bind with calcium and can result in nutritional issues. Iceberg lettuce also doesn’t make a good choice since it contains mostly water and almost no nutritional value. Squash and carrots can be given in small amount for added vitamins. Fruits such as berries, banana, and apples can be given occasionally as treat. Some bearded dragons get bored from the same food after some period of time. It’s always a good idea to use different insects and greens in their diets. There are lots of references online for what food that they can and cannot eat.
During their growth periods, babies and juveniles should be fed mostly on insects for maximum protein intake. However, greens should still be offered to them in regular basis to eliminate the risk of vitamin deficiency. Babies are usually reluctant to eat greens in the beginning. Offering the greens before any insects may increase their chance of being eaten. Since bearded dragons are attracted to movements, sprinkling the greens inside the cage may help stimulate them to eat greens. Multivitamins supplement should be given two to three times a week to avoid the risk of being vitamin deficiency.
Babies can also get easily impacted when being fed too much in a single feeding. Therefore, feeding them in small amount a few times a day reduces the risks of impactions. It also helps with their digestive system.
Babies and juveniles need a lot of calcium during their growth periods. It’s necessary dusting their food items with calcium supplement with every feeding. They can take more calcium than their body need, and any excess calcium is passed in their stools. When using an artificial UV light, calcium supplement with vitamin D3 is required. Without a natural sun light, their body cannot produce its own supply of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium absorption in their bones.
Since bearded dragons live in arid regions of Australia, their main source of water comes from their food source. They are able to withstand up to weeks without drinking water. In captivity, bathing your bearded dragons two to three times a week for roughly 10 minutes in lukewarm water will give them a chance to drink. Having water bowl/ dish in the cage all the time is not necessary. Spraying their face gently with water is also a good way to get them to drink. However, close attention must be given to the humidity inside the cage when using this method.
